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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.